TutorialPost 1489 min read

How to Create a Blazer Tech Pack with AI

Create a blazer tech pack with AI — canvas construction, lapel specifications, welt pocket details, lining, and tailored garment measurement grading.

Tailored garments: the most spec-intensive category

Blazers and tailored jackets are the most technically demanding garments to specify. Internal construction (canvas, fusing, shoulder pads, chest piece), precision details (lapel roll, gorge line, button stance), and finishing quality (pick stitching, welt pockets, sleeve buttons) all require detailed specification.

A blazer tech pack that only covers external dimensions will produce a sample that looks and feels wrong. The internal construction is what makes a blazer look tailored rather than shapeless.

Internal construction specifications

The internal structure defines blazer quality.

  • Canvas: full canvas, half canvas, or fused — determines drape and longevity
  • Chest piece: horsehair or synthetic canvas that shapes the front panel
  • Shoulder pads: type (structured, natural, none), thickness, shape
  • Sleeve head: roll of wadding at sleeve cap for shape
  • Front interfacing: fusible or sew-in, weight, and coverage area
  • Back stay: fabric reinforcement across upper back for shape retention

Lapel and collar specifications

Lapel specifications are critical for blazer appearance.

  • Lapel style: notch, peak, shawl
  • Lapel width: measured at widest point (standard: 3-3.5 inches)
  • Gorge line: angle and position where lapel meets collar
  • Lapel roll: where the lapel naturally folds — defines the 'break' point
  • Under-collar: felt, melton, or self-fabric
  • Collar stand height: typically 1.5-2 inches at center back

Pocket and button details

Blazer pockets require precision construction — welt pockets in particular need exact welt width (typically 0.25-0.375 inches), welt length, and pocket bag depth specifications.

Button specifications include: button diameter, material (horn, corozo, metal, plastic), color, and number of holes. Button stance (distance between center front and button) determines how the blazer sits when closed. Sleeve buttons need count (typically 3-4), spacing, and whether they are functional (surgeon's cuffs) or decorative.

Blazer lining and finishing

Blazer lining specifications include: lining fabric type (Bemberg cupro is standard for quality blazers, polyester for budget), lining color, and construction method (fully lined, half-lined body, or quarter-lined).

Finishing details that distinguish quality blazers: pick stitching (AMF stitching) on lapel edge, real buttonholes on sleeves, functional interior pocket construction, and piped seam allowances.

Tailored garment measurements

Blazer measurements include POMs unique to tailored garments: shoulder point placement, gorge depth, lapel width at break, front balance (center front length), back balance (center back length), and armhole depth.

Grading for blazers uses smaller increments than casual garments because fit precision matters more. Chest may grade at 1.5 inches per size while casual jackets grade at 2 inches. Shoulder width grades at 0.5 inches or less per size.